02 Jun

HAYWAY Episode 43 – Upper Hutt, NZ

That’ll do.

After almost 16,000km and 13 months on the road we have arrived home in the Hutt Valley of New Zealand.

We arrived in Wellington Harbour on a beautiful day and formed a peloton of friends and family to ride 30km to Baden’s sister’s house in Upper Hutt to signal the end of our journey.

It has been a weird ol’ month since we’ve been back. Baden really misses the cycle touring lifestyle while Shelley’s enjoying being inside again.

Thanks for listening to our series of podcasts. They’ve been fun to make. We have loved recording our memories in this form and hopefully you have enjoyed them too.

Watch this space for future podcast projects but for now farewell!

Cycle touring in New Zealand

Cycle touring in New Zealand

03 May

We’re Famous in the Hutt Valley

Cycle touring in New Zealand

If you have a letterbox in Upper Hutt, New Zealand, you’ll find a copy of the Upper Hutt Leader inside on Wednesday (NZ Time).

The front page should feature a couple of grubby cycle tourists who arrived home over the weekend.

For those of you who don’t live in Upper Hutt then please move here. We need more friends. Before you pack your worldly possessions and set sail for the green grass of the valley, you can read the story online here.

It’s been great being home and we have ridden our bikes every day so far. We just can’t shake this bug yet. Riding our bikes just feels normal.

Our homecoming podcast should be online later this week or early next. There will probably be one more podcast where we review our trip, some of our gear and muse on our future plans.

We also want to provide the cycle touring community with a decent gear review portal so keep coming back and hopefully we will have extensive reviews of how our kit list stacked up after 13 months on the road.

19 Apr

HAYWAY Episode 41 – Arthur’s Pass, NZ

The West Coast of New Zealand’s South Island covers the distance between the two major cities in the North Island, Wellington and Auckland, but this part of the country only has 33,000 thousand residents and bugger all cell phone coverage.

This week’s How Are You? Where Are You? podcast follows our journey up the coast and introduces some of the people we met along the way. All of them outstanding citizens.

This trip home is blowing any stereotypes we had about the people of this land out of the water. We have ridden into big walls of kindness, laughter, wisdom and friendship.

We visit some Greenstone carvers, glacier guides, a gold miner, a fisher and do our best to give some sort of verbal justice to the magical scenery, all while coming under attack by the wildlife in Arthur’s Pass National Park.

The Ride Up From Haast

Cycle touring in New Zealand

Clockwise from top left: up and over tiny Haast Pass; a Coaster’s rules; Belted Galloways, our favourite breed of cattle; this way on the West Coast Wilderness Trail; riding through native bush

Life on the Coast

Cycle touring in New Zealand

Clockwise from top left: the salmon truck and Dirk arrive at Lake Ianthe; salmon released; Baden and gold miner Des; water reservoir near Kumara; farm house at Whataroa; Des and Shelley inspect the mine

Home of Pounamu

Cycle Touring in New Zealand

Left to right then down: Stan McCullum, master pounamu carver; the mighty Arahura, the greenstone river; Amy’s pounamu; Jade cutting blade; our hosts Jules and Mark in Fox Glacier

The Majesty of Arthur’s Pass

From top: up towards the viaduct on Arthur's Pass; Waimakariri Valley; watch out for the cheeky Kea; New Zealand fern; Cass railway station

From top: up towards the viaduct on Arthur’s Pass; Waimakariri Valley; watch out for the cheeky Kea; New Zealand fern; Cass railway station

Our Journey Up the West Coast

04 Apr

HAYWAY Episode 39 – Balclutha, New Zealand

We became members of a cycle touring gang in this week’s How Are You? Where Are You? podcast.

As we headed into the remote Catlins region of southern New Zealand, we were joined by a couple of good buggers from the States.

Brian and Nick taught us a great deal and we had a brilliant time riding through some of the most stunning landscapes these isles have to offer.

Laughs and cheese rolls were shared on the journey and Nick’s mechanical nous came to the fore when Baden’s bike Fausto suffered his most catastrophic failure of the trip. A gallant attempt to resuscitate him an in impromptu ER in a woolshed was in vain, leaving the pair stranded in the wilderness until a kind Russian family came to the rescue.

There were some giant hugs handed out in Balclutha when we went our separate ways. The Americans drawn by the city lights of cosmopolitan Dunedin while the local kiwis sniffed the smell of moonshine in the Hokonui Hills.

Gang Riding in the Catlins

Cycle touring in New Zealand

Clockwise from top left: spotting the Yellow-Eyed penguin in Curio Bay; the same bird on our banknotes; more sage advice from Brian and Nick; riding to New Zealand’s actual southern-most tip at Slope Point

Cycle Touring in Heartland New Zealand

Cycle touring in New Zealand

Clockwise from top left: sheep rule the roads; Gore would like to be known as the Brown Trout fishing capital of the world; Shannon serves up the moonshine; Gore operates a No Gumboots Inside policy; Cheese Rolls, typical kiwi grub.

01 Mar

HAYWAY Podcast 36, Lima, Peru

We have found the end of our road in Latin America.

This trip will be London to Lima.

After an agonising decision, we have come to the conclusion that a year is enough and in this week’s How Are You? Where Are You? podcast we discuss why our bikes will travel in a plane home from Peru’s capital.

The cycling journey isn’t over however. We still plan to reintegrate into life in New Zealand by exploring New Zealand’s South Island by bike starting on March 13.

Every day is still an adventurous day in the world of cycling touring and the road to Lima was no exception. We were breathless at the top of the Cordillera Blanca. It even snowed on us!

Baden has been looking forward to arriving in Lima to find out if the food lives up to its reputation. Listen in to make sure it doesn’t disappoint.

Arriving in Lima

Clockwise from top: arriving on the beachfront; view on the way to Cerro San Cristobal; street art in Rimac; lots of religious symbolism here; Lima's cathedral; Peru's branding.

Clockwise from top: arriving on the beachfront; view on the way to Cerro San Cristobal; street art in Rimac; lots of religious symbolism here; Lima's cathedral; Peru's branding.

Peru above 4,000m

Clockwise from top left: happy campers admire the sunset; Pastoruri glacier; dwarfed on the way down; Puya plant; the road down the mountain; campsite in the National Park.

Clockwise from top left: happy campers admire the sunset; Pastoruri glacier; dwarfed on the way down; Puya plant; the road down the mountain; campsite in the National Park.

Peru's Politics

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Clockwise from top left: our host Andres; campaigning from Keiko; Alan Garcia; Julio Guzmán; Richard Acuña; PPK.

Lima Street Food

Left to right from top: breakfast cart with health tonics in bottles; scraping the aloe; an emoliente drink a day keeps the doctor away; Baden's plate of anticuchos (heart, stomach, intestine); the lady responsible for grilling those offcuts; picarones; pisco sour at Juanito's.

Left to right from top: breakfast cart with health tonics in bottles; scraping the aloe; an emoliente drink a day keeps the doctor away; Baden's plate of anticuchos (heart, stomach, intestine); the lady responsible for grilling those offcuts; picarones; pisco sour at Juanito's.

Our End of the Road

21 Feb

HAYWAY Episode 35 – Huaraz, Peru

We have left the desert behind and have climbed back into the mountains following the River Santa to Huaraz in Peru’s famous Cordillera Blanca. It’s the world’s biggest mountain range outside of the Himalayas. Seems we can’t get enough of the Andes.

You get a bit of a cycle touring warts and all How Are You? Where Are You? podcast this week. Our stomachs have been rumbling (in a bad way) and Shelley experienced some strange esophageal feelings while on her bike.

Baden’s lunch will annoy pet lovers out there and Shelley rocks out her translation skills as we interview Luis D’Angelo, a legendary Trujillo host of cycle tourers from around the world.

Come along for the ride!

Casa de Ciclistas in Trujillo

Clockwise from top left: logo for Trujillo cycling house; Luis the owner; Baden at the offending market restaurant; Baden with Jean-Baptiste and the miraculous new tyre; Aji de gallina-coloured church.

Clockwise from top left: logo for Trujillo cycling house; Luis the owner; Baden at the offending market restaurant; Baden with Jean-Baptiste and the miraculous new tyre; Aji de gallina-coloured church.

Visiting Chan Chan

Cycle touring in Peru

From top: Chan Chan sits in the middle of the coastal desert; Baden and fellow cycle tourist from Brazil Daniel explore the site; restored squirrel art.

Riding Back Into the Andes

From top left and left to right: Baden feeling ill; remote mountain restaurant; reaching a paved road; the tunnels in Cañon del Pato; heading from the coast to the mountains; lunch in the shade of the canyon wall; crossing the Rio Santa; mototaxi licence plate; heading for Cañon del Pato; Cañon del Pato tunnel in the foreground and hydro dam behind.

Yunguay Earthquake Memorial

From top and left to right: View of the memorial park with mountain behind; crushed bus; replica facade of the church, one of the huge boulders from the mountain that wreaked such destruction; remains of the original church.

From top and left to right: View of the memorial park with mountain behind; crushed bus; replica facade of the church, one of the huge boulders from the mountain that wreaked such destruction; remains of the original church.

Street Scenes

Clockwise from top left: fruit seller with traditional hat; Inca Kola advert; street knife sharpener; guinea pig , or cuy, for lunch; guinea pig mascot outside restaurant.

Clockwise from top left: fruit seller with traditional hat; Inca Kola advert; street knife sharpener; guinea pig , or cuy, for lunch; guinea pig mascot outside restaurant.

Our Ride Back Into the Andes

31 Jan

HAYWAY Episode 33 – Guayaquil, Ecuador

We say goodbye to the Andes and hello to the the hot and steamy coast in this week’s How Are You? Where Are You? podcast.

The Andes gave us one of our most traumatic days of our trip and then one of the most magical. All in the space of two days.

We have seen some jaw-dropping sights and try our best to turn the vision into words. Luckily we have some photos to help out below.

It sure feels weird to be sweating profusely again. What a strange enduring memory o be left with of Guayaquil, Ecuador’s biggest city.

We have managed to cool off by drinking the local brew and eating refreshing delights like ceviche. Cue a return for What’s in the Pot.

Tigua Art and Quilotoa’s Crater Lake

Cycle touring in Ecuador

Clockwise from top left: Andean art scene; Quilotoa’s crater lake; our purchase; the farmhouse in Tigua; Julio displays his art that we bought.

Climbing the Andes

Cycle touring in Ecuador

Clockwise from top left: a woolly llama heads to market; Shelley at 4,000m; awe-inspiring views; Shelley nails the climb.

Guayaquil Rest Day

Cycle touring in Ecuador

Clockwise from top left: urban iguanas in Parque Bolivar; Barcelona football club from Guayaquil; night out with our hosts Fabricio and Alicia.

What’s in the Pot?

Cycle touring in Ecuador

Clockwise from top left: Cerviche ingredients; the result; Fabricio’s Mum Yadira takes over in her kitchen.

Pedalling Down Volcano Alley and Across the Andes to the Coast

14 Dec

HAYWAY Podcast 28 – Bogota, Colombia

We come to you this week from Boggers, a.k.a Bogota, the capital of Colombia and the third-highest capital city on this green earth. (If you don’t count Bhutan’s capital Thimphu, which we deliberately chose to ignore in this podcast)

It was a long but beautiful slog to haul ourselves up here and what a huge and disorganised city we found at the top of the climb. However, the people have been fantastically friendly and this place has a rich history to explore.

On the way here, we stayed in some strange and wonderful places and stopped off at Guatepe,  a picture postcard town with an unusual style ethic.

What’s in the pot is back again and we continue to lift the lid on our breaking story regarding feijoas.

Hey, and thanks for listening to the How Are You? Where Are You? podcast.

Visiting Guatape

Cycle touring in Colombia

Clockwise from top left: The oldest street in Guatepe; Baden’s bike in front of a Zocalo; an example of a Zocalo; Enrique Garcia, owner of the oldest house in Guatape; a fountain in the village

Unexpected sleeping quarters

Cycle touring in Colombia

Clockwise from top left: the bomberos in El Peñol; school playground in Monteloro; the train station in Alban; Andres’s finca in Corona; our spot behind the fire engines in Puerto Salgar

Pictures From The Road

Cycle touring in Colombia

Left to right from top: off-roading between Guatepe and Granada; public transport in Cocorna; a block of panela; dishing out the morning’s panela; Baden and Shaggy posing in front of tanks showing the military presence on the route from Medellin to Bogota; Shelley in Guatepe; lunch spot under a bridge alongside the Magdalena River; the dog who followed us up the road out of Cocorna; Hacienda Nopales; Pablo Escobar’s farm; La Piedra del Peñol

Fun Times in Bogota

Cycle touring Colombia

Left to right from top: the view over Bogota; Shaggy, Shelley and Baden outside the presidential palace; old men play chess in downtown Bogota; the church in Plaza de Bolivar; hanging in Plaza de Bolivar; a Fernando Botero piece at the Botero Museum; the offering bowl at the Gold Museum; more gold on display at the Museo del Oro; an intricate offering raft at the gold museum.

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